From stock ECU to pro tunes, four top WRX clutches tailored to your goals.
If your WRX is tuned, launching hard, or simply getting up in miles, the factory clutch will eventually become the weak link. A wellmatched clutch upgrade lets you put power down cleanly, improves consistency under heat, and restores confidence every time you row through the gears.
Best Overall Street Performance
ACT Heavy Duty Street Sprung Clutch Kit
- Meaningful torque capacity bump – ACT heavy-duty WRX kits are commonly rated in the ~400–500 ft-lb range at the crank, giving plenty of headroom for a tuned stock turbo or mild turbo upgrade
- Pedal feel close to OEM – full-face organic discs and carefully tuned pressure plates keep effort reasonable for commuting while reducing slip under load
- Street manners first – compared with 4- or 6-puck race discs, full-face ACT street discs keep chatter, on/off engagement, and gearbox shock in check for daily use
Best for Daily Driving
Mishimoto Performance Cold Air Intake Kit
- OEM heritage – same manufacturer that supplies many Subaru factory clutches, but in a stronger configuration
- Moderate torque increase – heavy-duty Exedy kits for WRX commonly handle ~30–60% more torque than stock, enough for a healthy tuned FA20 or EJ with bolt-ons
- Noise & NVH close to stock – ideal if the car has to pass the “spouse/partner test” and you want minimal additional gear rattle or chatter
Best Aggressive HPDE
SpeedClutch Masters FX300
- High holding capacity with smooth engagement – segmented Kevlar friction provides strong bite when you’re in boost but retains a progressive pedal take-up that’s friendlier than many ceramic puck setups
- Reasonable pedal effort – pressure plate design targets higher clamp load without a huge jump in pedal weight, so you can still live with it day-to-day
- Proven on Subarus – FX300 kits are widely used on WRX/STI builds that combine spirited street driving with occasional track use
Best Suited for Big Power Builds
McLeod Racing Street Elite Clutch Kit
- Engineered for 50–70%+ power increases – Street Elite/Supreme kits are rated for significant torque beyond stock on Subaru platforms, with high clamp load pressure plates and carbon/organic or ceramic puck discs
- Streetable engagement for the power level – sprung hubs and carefully matched friction materials keep engagement manageable compared with pure race multi-disc sets
- Complete kits – typically include pilot tool and throw-out bearing, simplifying parts sourcing for a comprehensive clutch job
Installation & Break-In Tips
Even the best clutch for WRX can feel terrible—or fail early—if the install or break-in is wrong.
Installation basics
-
Use new hardware and alignment tools
Replace throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, and hardware with new parts included in your kit.Check the input shaft snout for wear; repair sleeve kits are cheap insurance. -
Inspect related components
Check the flywheel surface (resurface or replace as required).Inspect rear main seal, clutch fork, pivot ball, and hydraulic components while you’re there. -
Torque to spec & center properly
Follow the manufacturer’s torque sequence and values on pressure plate bolts.Ensure the disc is perfectly centered to avoid input shaft binding.
Break-in procedure
Most performance clutch makers (notably Clutch Masters FX series and others) specify roughly 500 miles of gentle street driving before full-throttle pulls or aggressive launches.
During break-in:
- Avoid hard launches, clutch dumps, or repeated high-rpm shifts.
- Use smooth engagement and let the clutch fully engage before going hard into boost.
- Vary your driving—steady highway cruising is less helpful than mixed city miles with frequent shifts.
Skimping on break-in is a common reason clutches glaze, chatter, or lose capacity prematurely.
Maintenance and Driving Habits
While clutches are largely “install and forget,” a few habits can extend life:
- Don’t ride the clutch – avoid resting your foot on the pedal or slipping the clutch excessively on hills; use the handbrake or hill-hold.
- Limit clutch kicks and shock loads – repeated clutch dumps and aggressive launches dramatically shorten the life of any clutch and stress gears and axles.
- Listen for changes – grinding engagement, new noises when pressing the pedal, or a suddenly higher bite point can signal hydraulic or mechanical issues (TOB, master/slave cylinder, snout wear). Community reports often tie persistent chirping to TOB or snout problems on upgraded clutches if install details are missed.
If pedal feel or engagement changes suddenly, inspect sooner rather than later—catching issues early often saves the flywheel and related parts.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need an upgraded clutch for a tuned WRX?
If you’re Stage 1 only and drive gently, a healthy OEM-style clutch can cope. Once you’re at Stage 2 or above, frequently in higher gears at full boost, or seeing any slip in higher gears, it’s smart to move to a stronger ACT, Exedy Stage 1, or Clutch Masters kit tuned to your power level.
How long will a performance clutch last?
With proper break-in and sane driving, many WRX owners see 40k–70k+ miles from street-oriented upgrades. Aggressive driving, frequent launches, or tracking the car will shorten that window. Twin-disc or ceramic puck setups trade some lifespan and smoothness for capacity.
Will I get a check engine light?
A quality cold air intake that's properly installed should not trigger a check engine light. If you do see a CEL after installation, the most common causes are a loose connection or vacuum leak somewhere in the intake system, or a MAF sensor that needs cleaning. Double-check all connections before assuming there's a problem with the intake itself.
Is a twin-disc clutch streetable on a WRX?
Modern street-focused twin-disc setups are streetable for experienced drivers, but they’re less forgiving than a mild single-disc. They make sense once you’re well past the limits of strong single-disc kits and still want to drive the car regularly.
How do I know my stock clutch is slipping?
Common signs include:
- RPMs flare without a corresponding increase in speed under hard acceleration, especially in 3rd–6th gears.
- Burnt smell after a hill or aggressive start.
- Bite point moving higher and higher on the pedal over time.
If you notice these, especially after tuning or adding torque, it’s time to plan a clutch upgrade.